Do Any Elite Trad Climbers Today Use Hexes?
Hexagonal nuts, also known as hexes, were once the go-to protection for trad climbers. Small, lightweight, and versatile, hexes could fit into constricted cracks and offer reliable security. However, in recent decades, hexes have largely been replaced by camming devices, which are more user-friendly and offer better holding power.
Today, it's rare to see elite trad climbers using hexes. Most prefer the convenience and performance of cams. However, hexes still have their niche uses, particularly in very thin cracks or when there's a need for redundant protection.
Why Aren't Hexes Used More Often?
- Cams are more user-friendly and require less skill to place securely.
- Cams offer better holding power, especially in flared cracks.
- Cams are easier to remove, especially if they get stuck.
When Might Hexes Be Useful?
- In very thin cracks where cams cannot fit.
- As redundant protection on difficult routes.
- In situations where the rock is fragile and there's a risk of cam damage.
Related Questions and Answers
- Are hexes still being manufactured? Yes, some companies still make them, but they are less common.
- What are the best hexes for trad climbing? Black Diamond Hexentrics and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are popular choices.
- Are hexes good for beginner trad climbers? Not really. They require more skill to place than cams.
- How do I learn to place hexes? Practice on a wall or use a guidebook and online resources.
- Can I use hexes to aid climb? No, hexes are not designed for aiding and can be dangerous if used improperly.
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